Sunday 27 November - Another trip to the North bank
We had been invited to Bakary
Gitteh's home compound in the village of Sika, which is a few Km
past Juffreh, the village that is the centre of the Roots trip.
So, third time lucky,
surely... up at 5.15am, early breakfast, taxi arrived, down to the
ferry, very short queue, we must have got it right this time.... BUT
no ferry! It just did not arrive at all – so we had to wait until
the (slower) ferry arrived from Barra. Late again to meet Ousman at
the café, but he was getting the hang of it all by now and he was
there to meet us.
An hour late again – never
mind, we were now en route for the café at Juffreh. We arrived and
were met with rapturous enthusiasm by Abdou, who (we think) runs the
café. Sandra was also in raptures – mainly about the goats who were
obligingly posing along the café wall. |
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goats on the café wall |
After a cold Sprite (too
early for Julbrew) we discussed Ousman's paintings and how they
could be displayed for sale to the many tourists who visit the café
– on a commission basis, of course. Both Abdou and Ousman were
pleased with the idea, so we ruled up a book for Abdou to keep the
Ousman accounts and gave him a calculator to help with the
arithmetic. Ousman then produced 3 drawings he had done since
Thursday with his new charcoal and graphite pencils – very striking,
Abdou said he would keep them all for displaying to sell and when
could Ousman bring some more? So that was fine... we'll see how they
are doing in February.
Off to Sika and Bakary's
compound, where we were shown round the part of the compound
that Bakary has been building since 1998. At present he and his
immediate family are living there themselves, but as soon as it
is finished his parents will move into it as it will be the best
part of the greater family compound. It is really very nice –
much larger than most Gambian compound living areas and very
well finished. We could see how good it will look once it is
decorated. |
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the new building in
Bakary Gitteh's compound at Sika |
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Then, we found we were to be
treated to the most fantastic breakfast. Mariama, Bakary's wife, is
the Home Science teacher at Bakalarr School and it is easy to see
why her pupils all get such high marks in their exams. She had
produced two huge bowls of prawns, cooked in two different ways,
both equally delicious – AND, because she wanted us to be able to
sample as many Gambian dishes as possible, two sorts of porridge –
WOW, as Kemo would say (and did say, come to think of it). And this
was breakfast.... I have to say, we did it justice and it was the
most delightful meal I have eaten in The Gambia.
After breakfast, we were
greeted by many of the people who had gathered in the compound, most
of them ladies. Even for The Gambia, this seemed to be an unusually
large gathering. All the
ladies were coming in and saying the same thing to us, to which we
smiled and nodded – eventually we had to ask what they were saying
and what we should say in reply. And so, Kemo wrote us a small
dictionary of greetings, which we practised on the ladies, much to
their amusement and satisfaction. We met Bakary's father, a
delightful elderly gentleman, who is obviously very proud of his
son's achievements and various other family members including
Bakary's two daughters, Fatoumatta and Nyimi – the latter was born
while Bakary was staying with us in the summer.
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The gathering at
Sika |
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Kemo & Bakary's daughter Fatoumatta |
Pippa & Bakary's daughter Nyimi |
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Then, far too quickly, it was
lunchtime! And we had only just had this enormous breakfast.... Now
Mariama really pulled out all the stops – she had obviously only
been toying with us earlier! I think we had five dishes for lunch,
but I may have missed one.. we had benechin, domada, a meat stew, a
chicken dish served with millet and another chicken dish served with
maize. It was all delicious – I particularly like the domada – and
the beef stew – and the... but we were truly defeated this time,
even Kemo. Lunch, of course, was served to everyone...
And, during lunch it became
apparent why there were quite so many ladies present at the
gathering. Mariama had organised a micro-loan scheme for the
village. This had all come about after Bakary had watched a video
about a similar scheme in South Africa, when he visited the UK in
summer 2005. These schemes involve lending small amounts of money to
enable people to start small businesses, with the money being paid
back over six months or so. The surprise event of the day was thus
the launch of the first Pageant Loan. This is an important new way
in which Pageant can help Gambian people. We have created a new
Pageant Loan Page
which contains the background to micro-loans, an account of this
launch and will be updated to report progress at Bakalarr, and
wherever else Pageant Loans are started.
Having got the serious
business over, it was time to present the family gifts we had
brought with us. Bakary suggested that we did this inside his living
area, as there would obviously not be a gift for everyone present in
the compound – I estimated about 120 were there by now! This made
things easier in terms of presenting the gifts, but more difficult
for photographing the occasion, particularly as my camera battery
was running down by now.
We had decided to give Ben's second solar lighting system to this
compound.
Read more
about how Ben from Warnham School raised the money for these
lanterns. Many school children live in and around it and there is no
mains electricity or even a generator in the village, so it seemed
that it would be of great benefit here. They were just as thrilled
as the Siffoe villagers had been and Bakary was most impressed by
the size of the solar panel and the light output of the lantern.
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presentation of the
lantern |
Now it really was time to
leave – but first, we had to have a ride on the donkey cart! Just a
short ride down the track from the compound to the 'road' and the
waiting taxi, as Sandra and I were really rather concerned about the
donkey.
Pippa and Sandra on the
donkey cart >>
(Bakary's youngest brother
Alieu is driving)
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Then back in the taxi and off
to Barra to catch the ferry – but on the way we had to call in to
Bakalarr village to visit Ousman's latest endeavour. He has made a
small studio to house his paintings and art materials and has named
it the 'Joan Dobie Art Studio', after Pippa's Mum – and he has
printed a T-shirt as well! We were taken to the tiny building, which
is at the side of his mother's compound, and he rather diffidently
showed us some of his latest paintings. I really loved the 'blue' series of four paintings
he had on one wall and bought one from him to bring home – for the
first time ever I had to bargain a Gambian UP, as the price he was
asking was really too ridiculously small! We had a little discussion
about prices he must charge at the café... specially as he had told
me earlier in the day that he is now paying the fees for his brother
to attend school, all from his paintings. Ousman really is a little
success story all on his own...
Then we were off again -
would we be in time for the 7pm crossing? When we arrived in Barra
we found to our horror that the car queue for the ferry stretched
right along the main road through the town, presumably because one
of the ferries had not been working. The ferry was just docking when
we arrived, so we decided that Sandra, Kemo and I would take all the
bags with us and go across as foot passengers, leaving the taxi
driver to follow as soon as he could. I paid the driver and
(fortunately) gave him a good tip, as he had been very long
suffering all day. (Mind you, he had been fed extremely well!) It
was as well that he did get some extra cash, as he did not manage to
cross over to Banjul until noon the next day!
We were so pleased that we had decided to cross on foot – we were
pretty late back as it was. Another evening spent in the pool bar,
where it was dark enough to sit without calling attention to our hot
and dusty state – grilled ladyfish and a Julbrew or two were
becoming a habit! Then, a blissful shower and so to bed...
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