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Challenge Diary - Page D - Timbuktu to Bamako

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Day 22 Tues 16th Jan - Timbuktu to Mopti

 

Mark ensures everyone is awake at 5am for an early getaway and hopefully beat the ferry queue. The ferry is 10 miles south of Timbuktu and is the only way of getting across the mighty Niger River for those heading south.

The group leave well before Tim, he gave some camping gear and food for them to carry, but still has some gear to get rid of before leaving town. He sells some gear and his guitar for a nominal amount to the guys who bought the car; they then take Tim to the ferry in the Escort. At the ferry Tim says goodbye to the Escort and its new owners and transfers his bags to a Toyota Landcruiser, this will take him (and the other local occupants) as far as Mopti [map].

Ferry across the Niger from Timbuktu

Village on the Niger

Ferry across the Niger from Timbuktu

Village on the Niger

The ferry arrives, boarding commences and we saunter over the river, arriving at the opposite bank in about an hour. Looking at the track immediately from the ferry, Tim wonders how any 2wd cars could have possibly made the first 600 yards. Undulating and deeply rutted soft sand tracks must have caused problems. Even the Landcruiser had to work hard to get through.

Although bad, the road/track ahead was not quite as severe as expected and the Landcruiser made fairly good speed. After a couple of hours we had caught the back of the group and managed to overtake them, despite the off-road conditions and huge dust clouds from the moving vehicles. In relative comfort for the first time in days, Tim smiled and waved as he passed his friends bouncing along. Soon after, the track smoothed out significantly, we then turned from South to West where we joined the main tarmac road just before Douentza [map]. This is where we stopped for some lunch. Goat of course followed by some fresh fruits. Strange noises from the engine made us pull over to investigate, at which point the engine started to over-speed, billowing clouds of blue smoke and refusing to stop. At Tim's suggestion, putting the car into gear and stalling it was eventually the only way to stop it. It was obvious the Landcruiser was seriously ill and further attempts to restart just ended with a repeat performance.

Road to Douentza

Two broken Land Cruisers

Road to Douentza

Two broken Land Cruisers

 

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Another passing Landcruiser stopped to assist us (a friend of our driver), took us in tow and after half an hour, stopped due to a puncture. Things weren't going too well.

On the move again and another hour later, our Towing car broke down. Not too surprising considering the speed they were trying to achieve.

John, Ray, Tim & the Land Rover

While deliberating how to fix the tow car and allowing all occupants the chance of a 'comfort stop', Tim spots the group approaching, flags them down, retrieves his bags, wishes his ex-driver and passengers good luck and squeezes his bags into the Land Rover and himself into Nathan & Frankie's Merc.

Amazing, 3 breakdowns in as many hours, whereas the Escort only had 1 incident in 3 weeks!

The group seemed to have faired OK from Timbuktu, but the cars must have had another severe beating. Our collective objective (nice rhyme eh?) is now to try and take in the sights of Mopti and Djenne on the way to Bamako.

John, Ray, Tim & the Land Rover

We get to Mopti [map] before dark and manage to find a couple of hotels, one for the guys who were happy to blow the budget and bask in luxury, the other for those still watching the pennies. Despite carrying a fair wad of cash, Tim shares a basic room with Ray & John as their budget is limited, also they are happy to share their Land Rover and fuel costs with Tim for the next 2 days.

It seemed a good idea (after getting permission from the hotel manager) to let off some of the fireworks left over from New Year (we had meant to do this in Timbuktu). It looked pretty spectacular, launching from the hotel roof, and it certainly lit up the sky. Unfortunately we were not aware of certain facts.

  • Fireworks are rarely seen or heard in this part of the world.

  • Our hotel was next door but one from the residence of the town governor.

The local police thought there was a rocket attack and possible coup in progress, they sped round to the hotel in a car followed by a pick-up truck with mounted machine gun.

Fortunately and by chance, a British lady who was residing nearby saved the day. She spoke fluent French and explained to the Police Chief that the fireworks were an expression of our happiness at being in Mali, and Mopti in particular, and how we loved all the Malian people. The brown-nosing worked a treat, the police shook our hands, they left, we thanked the lady, laughed and went to bed!

Day 23 Wed 17th Jan - Mopti to Segou

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There's not too much to see in Mopti other than a frenetic market, a busy commercial port on the Niger and the usual impressive mud-built mosque.

We set of, all three of us squeezed into the front of the old Land Rover, Tim is driving. Before we are out of town, a traffic policeman pulls us over at a roundabout. He opens the drivers' door, looks around and points out that Tim is not wearing his seat belt. We immediately twig what is now going to happen.

Tim apologises profusely for the offence (which probably is not an offence) and promises never to forget again. The policeman then asks for driving licence, insurance etc. Unable to find anything seriously amiss, he informs us that there is a fee for not wearing a seatbelt (surprise surprise!). Tim politely points out that every single car passing us has a driver who is not wearing a seatbelt. No good, the fee will be 17,000 CFA (£17), payable in cash, no receipt, or go to police station in handcuffs. The fee demanded is probably more than he is paid in a week. Our problem is that we need to be moving on, or will not get to see the sights before Bamako. If we stick it out, calling his bluff, it could take hours. We decide to try to negotiate the fee, more out of principle than need. We claim that we cannot afford the fee and that it is too high. After a few minutes we hand over 10,000 CFA and drive away. After ten minutes driving, Tim puts his seatbelt on!

We reach the outskirts of Djenne [map] and stop for lunch just short of a ferry that will take us over to the island. No sooner have we pulled over when we are welcomed by a small party of men, headed by a smartly dressed Malian man wearing designer sunglasses, he introduces himself by the name of John Travolta, tells us that we are most welcome and that he owns all the land 2km either side of the ferry point, and that it will be 5,000 CFA to park or picnic here. We all burst out laughing, pile back into the Land Rover, cross on the ferry and picnic on the other side in peace.

Ferry to Djenne

World's largest mud building. The Mosque at Djenne

Ferry to Djenne

World's largest mud building.
The Mosque at Djenne

The ferry is interesting, a little smaller than the one that crosses Lake Windermere, but this one is powered by a single 15 hp outboard motor! Still, it gets you there.

The mosque at Djenne is as magnificent as it is portrayed in photographs and guidebooks. It's easy to see why it's claimed to be the largest mud built structure in the world. A shame we're not allowed inside. Unfortunately the rest of the town is not so impressive, after a stroll we buy some bead souvenirs, backtrack via the ferry and John Travolta to the main road.

It's getting dark when we arrive in Segou [map], our last overnight stop before Bamako. We find our chosen hotel to be full, so head back towards a posh looking place we saw on the way into town. John is driving this time and we find ourselves heading the wrong way down a one-way street. Guess what? Yep there happens to be a policeman waiting whom politely advises us of our error and that there will be an 18,000 CFA fine. Same situation as before so we choose to negotiate the price down and pay 10,000 just to get to the hotel before the restaurant shuts. Hotel Independence is highly recommended. Clean, good food, cold beer and a nice swimming pool (though the water is a bit cold in the morning).

Day 24 Thurs 18th Jan - Segou to Bamako

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After breakfast and a refreshing swim, we manage to leave Segou without paying any further fines or bribes.

Taxi rank, Mali style

Daytime firework display in desert!

Taxi rank, Mali style

Daytime firework display in desert!

We catch up with the rest of the group and then pull over to let off all the remaining fireworks. A bizarre sight, watching a firework display in the semi-desert in the middle of the day!

We approach Bamako via the old causeway and Hydro station that crosses the Niger River to the East of the city. By 2pm we are back at the Dakan Hotel.

Tim tells the others roughly where things are in the city, how to get onto the Sofitel Hotel roof, banks etc.
Everyone's priority now is to try and sell their cars for a half decent price, and not to let anyone know that we are all leaving the country the following evening.

Ray thinks he will sell the Land Rover OK and deals with a guy who will come with the actual buyer and money tomorrow.

We all eat at a local Chinese restaurant where certificates are awarded to some of the group members for various deeds or acts of stupidity. Anna announces that she and Philippe got engaged while in Timbuktu. We were all pleased for them but no great surprise; throughout the trip they had been all over each other like a rash at every opportunity!

After asking the restaurant staff, we finish off Tim's Damson Gin and bottle of Port he'd been saving.

Day 25 Fri 19th Jan - Last day in Bamako

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Tim spends the day getting rid of his remaining gear and having a last look around Bamako.

Market, Bamako

Rays buyer for the Land Rover doesn't show up at the agreed time. Tim offers to take Ray, John and the Landy to a prosperous area of the city, by the BICIM bank where Tim and George were approached just over a week ago. Nathan comes too, to change some CFA's. As we park up, a well dressed man takes interest in the old Land Rover and within 5 minutes a deal is struck! It takes him a while to gather the cash together, worth the wait because he also helps us out in changing all our remaining CFA's into Euros, at a very good rate.

After a few text messages back and forth, it is decided that we will all meet at the Sofitel for a last meal together before flying out of Bamako at 3.30am next morning.

Market, Bamako

After a few well-earned G&T's in Bamako's finest Hotel bar, we decant to the restaurant for a very average meal with very average service. Hey Ho, this is Africa, and nothing must be relied upon!

We all recount our adventures and promise to try and have a reunion one day.

Grand Mosque. Bamako
Grand Mosque. Bamako
Rush hour, Bamako
Rush hour, Bamako
Open sewers. Bamako
Open sewers. Bamako

It was agreed that everyone's digital photo's will be collected and collated by Nathan, then re-distributed to all at a later date.

Frankie reads out her secret 'gay list' which she compiled soon after we all met in Morocco. All men were given a rating of between 1 and 10 depending on how gay they were, (or how gay they were perceived to be in Frankie's eyes). It would be unfair to comment on Nick and Tim's particular rating, other than to say that Nick's score suggested him to be closer to Graham Norton than he would wish.

After the meal and collecting all our belongings together again, we ordered a bunch of taxis to take us to the airport. Ray, John and Tim got into the last one to arrive, a rather tatty (even by Mali standards) Peugeot 305. As the last bag was pushed into the boot, it pushed out the whole rear light assembly, previously held in by a single strand of Sellotape. The driver just chucked it inside with the luggage. Then the car wouldn't start. The driver decided to coast the car down the slope, towards the main road, presumably to try and a bump start it. He didn't even try; without stopping, he simply coasted the car across the two lanes of busy traffic and let it come to rest by the roadside. We were all terrified! He then grabbed an empty fuel can from the passenger footwell, got out of the car and flagged down another taxi and demanded that the taxi go and get him some fuel! The man was clearly a lunatic and knew he had no fuel before he collected us. We all got out and tried to open the boot, but it needed a key and the driver wouldn't open it. We argued. Tim threatened to get the police and the boot was opened. We got all our gear out and transferred it to the other taxi (who unsurprisingly refused to get fuel for the lunatic). As we got moving again the drivers door was pulled open and the lunatic was running along with us, demanding that our new driver pay him a commission for providing a fare! Amazing. Our new driver chucked a couple of coins out into the road just to get rid and for the sake of safety. The rest of the journey to the airport was fine.

Day 26 Sat 20th Jan - The flight home

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Despite a limited number of flights, Bamako airport seemed somewhat chaotic. Umpteen officials checking our passports around every corner, some of us being questioned about the whereabouts of the cars, we finally made it to the departure lounge and at 3am boarded our plane and left for Casablanca.

After a long stopover we caught our connecting flight to Heathrow and then Tim got the shuttle up to Manchester.

Expecting to see just Arlene at Manchester, it was a nice surprise to also be met by Nick and Jenny.

Final notes

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Different in many ways to our adventure last year, but again it seems that our challenge was completed without any major breakdowns (car-wise and relationship-wise). All credit to Henry Ford and those men & women in Germany who screwed him together so well. It still amazes us just how much punishment a car can take.

What next?

Dunno

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